ALEX ENGWETE

Congologie : Espace d’analyses et d’opinions sur la culture et la politique du sous-continent de la République Démocratique du Congo. Contact: alexengwete@gmail.com

26 juillet 2010

Avec Luka Mambu à Maluku-le-paradis

MalukuVoilier

 

 

Luka Mambu roule carrosse à Kin. Il a une BMW flambant neuve, un bolide (et Luka Mambu roule à tombeau ouvert pour peu que l’état de la route le permette) dans lequel il m’a emmené passer une journée dominicale mémorable ce dimanche 25 juillet au bord du Fleuve Congo à Maluku, à 80 km à l’est de la capitale. Le fleuve, fort étroit à cet endroit, s’appelle Le Channel, m’apprend-il. Et le cadre, appelé « Le Petit Paradis », mérite bien son nom : un paradis de silence et de beauté ; silence entrecoupé de clapotis susurrés des vagues venant se briser contre le sable humide de la petite plage (description de Luka Mambu). Le Channel, voilé par la brume de l’« elanga » [saison sèche], ne permettait qu’une vue indistincte d’un village de pêcheurs en face de nous, sur la rive droite, c’est-à-dire au Congo-Brazzaville.

MalukuPetitParadis

Puisque je parle de pays, c’était frappant de voir certaines petites embarcations battant pavillon, soit R.D. congolais ou soit Congolais (de la rive droite). La proximité des deux pays à cet endroit — moins de 5 km, me renseigne Luka Mambu — fait que de ce côté-ci il y a des agents de l’immigration en tenue civile qui veillent au grain. J’ai d’ailleurs été confronté par l’un d’eux qui a cru que j’avais fait une photo de lui. Ce que j’ai nié vigoureusement. L’agent m’a alors demandé de faire défiler les images se trouvant dans la mémoire de ma caméra Sony Cyber-shot. N’eût-été l’intervention abrupte du « petit » Ntsimba, celui que j’appelle depuis le garde du corps de Luka Mambu, ma caméra aurait sans doute été saisie sans autre forme de procès par cet agent à l’air patibulaire. Je vois d’ici TONGO ETANI ou BELY21 crier haro sur les tracasseries policières d’un système inique !... (Au pont, partiellement détruit de la Rivière Nsele, il y a une sorte de barrière de policiers avec un ou deux membres de la garde présidentielle : il faut passer par ce pont pour se rendre à la ferme présidentielle de Kingakati sur la route du Bandundu— et tôt ce matin du dimanche, le Raïs s’y était justement déjà rendu…)

J’ai aussi fait le constat de l’absence quasi-totale de l’élite congolaise en cet endroit idyllique, totalement investi par des expatriés qui viennent y passer ce que les Anglophones appellent un « quality time ». Ici, pas de cacophonie musicale du couloir Madiakoko de Matonge ; pas de poussière ; mais l’air pur que souffle une brise douce qui balaie le Channel. Il semble que les Congolais nantis, à l’exception de quelques oiseaux rares du type de Luka Mambu, préfèrent se soûler la gueule à la cité comme notre bon vivant TONGO ETANI. De toute façon, c’était pour moi un spectacle désolant de voir des équipées de canotiers expatriés venant du centre-ville de Kinshasa pour pique-niquer à Maluku. Luka Mambu m’apprend aussi qu’il y a un club nautique au beach à Kinshasa où l’on loue des canots « cher, très, très cher » (mots de Luka Mambu).

Luka Mambu, qui vient chaque week-end à Maluku quand il se trouve à Kin, est bien connu des pêcheurs locaux qui soudainement grouillent autour de nous pour lui proposer qui, un capitaine, qui, un « Zaïko » (précédemment appelé « Congo-ya-sika » [nouveau Congo]), etc. Entre les pêcheurs et les vendeurs, il y a des « commissionnaires », qui sont de la tribu des Teke, peuple à qui appartient cette partie du territoire de la capitale. Et gare aux pêcheurs qui s’aventureraient de vendre directement leurs prises aux acheteurs. Les prix sont évidemment gonflés au maximum, mais Luka Mambu et le petit Ntsimba savent bien marchander. Luka Mambu exige par exemple d’acheter directement du pêcheur. Mais j’avais l’impression que, devant la pression des Teke, les pêcheurs incluaient dans leurs prix proposés à Luka Mambu les pourcentages des commissionnaires qui attendaient à quelque distance. Mais Luka Mambu a fini par acheter au prix qu’il voulait : quatre gros poissons pour 35 dollars ! Luka Mambu m’offre l’un des gros poissons qui constitue ce lundi mon dîner…

MalukuPoisson01

J’étais frappé de découvrir parmi les jeunes pêcheurs Simon (photo ci-dessous), un membre de l’ethnie Topoke de la Province Orientale, traditionnellement peuple d’agriculteurs. Je suis étonné d’apprendre que Simon, né à Kinshasa où il a appris à pêcher, n’a jamais foulé le sol boyomais. J’oubliais : Luka Mambu ne prend pas d’alcool — il boit des sodas ! Au déjeuner — mon plat était fait d’une chikwangue, de « nsania » (crevettes) et de « pondu » (feuilles de manioc) — j’en étais à ma quatrième bouteille de « Skol » bien tapée (je remercie Luka Mambu pour le déjeuner, la bière, la découverte du site paradisiaque de Maluku et le plaisir de rouler dans son bolide). C’est au crépuscule qu’on a quitté, à notre corps défendant, Maluku-le-paradis ! Luka Mambu s’est arrêté au bord de la route pour acheter quelques produits agricoles que proposent les agriculteurs Teke tout le long de voie…

MalukuPoisson02

J’ai eu le privilège d’une dernière « Skol » glacée dans le salon climatisé de la résidence de Luka Mambu à Matete, bière servie par sa très gracieuse épouse. Celle-ci voulait d’ailleurs m’offrir ma septième bière de la journée, mais j’ai prudemment décliné, ma tête prête à chavirer dans l’incohérence comme TONGO ETANI après seulement deux « Turbos » !...

MalukuBrume

 

(Photos: Alex Engwete)

Posté par Alex Engwete à 15:26 - Commentaires [156] - Permalien [#]

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